1979 Spider 2000 Dual Weber 40 IDF Help needed.

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Postby lordsiris » Fri Jun 15, 2007 9:07 pm

How do I know what size needle seats I need, just use the numbers off the old ones? [EDIT: I think I found this info, does 175 sound right?] Also you said that you bought the brass tube and got it to fit, how did you connect it to the carb? Is that part of the upper half of the carb that can be pulled off and soldered (aware that the fuel will have to cleaned away) or some other way. Also how does the synchrometer work in these carbs with those tubes there? What fuel are you guys running? Regular or premium, I think the premium here is 93 octane.

Thanks,

Chris

By the way I love that area down there (Pensacola), I had a friend that lived in Destin and I have visited that area many times!!
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Postby allenlofland » Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:18 am

Chris,,,to many questions hehe. Have you bought the haynes webber book yet 8)
The rebuild kit will have what you need to start, Kits are available from Peirce Manafould and other vendors,
When you get the Carbs on the bench all these things will fall into place, I beleive the tubing I got sliped right in, I might have used a bit of epoxy to bed them in, dont rmember but that would be alright if you are carefull not to block any passages.
But first you need to get that book and read up.
Allen & Lynette Lofland
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The impossible has been done!!

Postby lordsiris » Sun Jun 24, 2007 5:08 pm

Allen,
Yeah sorry about the barrage of questions. I was just very anxious to work on things will waiting for the stuff to arrive in the mail. Using the synchrometer isn't a problem fitting over the tubes!! Also happy to say that with the new 125 main jets the car does run alot better, it still seems to lean out (just slightly) around 2600rpm but I think I read somewhere else that this is kinda common and can be rectified by adjusting the accelerator pump. Unfortunately the rebuild kit arrived with the wrong needle size (200 instead of 175). Also the haynes weber manual is great, complete chapter on the 40 IDF. Did I say that the car is now running...

With that I do have a couple (just 2) questions. First is there an adapter for the synchrometer that allows it to fit better into the barrels? Shouldn't both carbs have an idle speed screw? Currently the carb for cylinders 3 and 4 doesn't appear to have the idle speed screw (which I believe should be slightly to the right and above the idle mixture screw of the barrel for cylinder 4). The manual says to adjust both when tuning but there isn't anything there on the second carb.

mbouse... Just a few more things to get done (new tires and 4 wheel alignment) and I may be up for a trip to Auburn.

Thanks,

Chris
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Postby allenlofland » Sun Jun 24, 2007 5:34 pm

Both carbs are to be identical except for linckage, if you are missing a idle screw, is the hole there????
Have you for sure dentified these beast, what are the numbers on them.
Also the picture you posted showed no horns on top, you do have the horns ??? the synchonizer will only work with the horns on :)
Until you have them adjusted ,,,synchonized, you will not be able to tell hwere your other problems are. Its the ability to synchonize them that shows you some of the problems. Like why do all four not make equal change when shut done ...air leaks maybe. Also bas gaskets are common failure allowing leakage.
Keep working at it, it will come. What about the numbers and the horns ??
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Hmm

Postby lordsiris » Sun Jun 24, 2007 6:21 pm

Ok best I can read the number is 40 IDF 13 (maybe other set of two numbers or maybe a couple other letters are unreadable without taking things apart). I think the 13/15 were the original Fiat installed 40's on the 1608 spider. I have no air horns. The picture you saw is what I see with the top of the air cleaner removed. Below is a picture with the top removed.

Edit: Also I really believe I have the hole for the idle speed screw on the second carb but nothing is there. I can't actually see it but it feels exactly the same as the one I have been adjusting on the first carb. Would only one be required because of the throttle linkage in the middle joining the two carbs?

Image
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Postby allenlofland » Sun Jun 24, 2007 10:22 pm

You will need to aquire a set of horns for proper runnning, they will work with out but most find they are benificial and of cource tunning is easier.
You will need to be able to ballance each carb individually and THEN balance the two carbs together. so yes you will need the other screw adjuster,,it is an open hole wow what a leak :) if it is plugged ouch, some one has broken it of and you will possible loose that carb ans drilling and tapping is not a do it your self item....you need to answere this question first thing. 8)
13/15 is the original fiat combination and a good one :)
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Re: 1979 Spider 2000 Dual Weber 40 IDF Help needed.

Postby Tpanichello » Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:18 pm

I have a 79 I bought new , that is the hardest year to buy anything for they have headers for 78 and 80 but 79 sucks they had the big motor but the worst set up for carbs and things due to the emission stuff..... I was going to buy a weber set up but I read a lot and the guy who you took it it to sounds like he knows his stuff. Everyone talks but they are not at all familiar with a 79 I am serious it is diff then the rest I started to take the pollution pump and valves off and it helped I have a weber 2b on it stock but it is crap in order to change it I should put a older manifold on it that is one prob . I can get a 1980 header and plug off the sensor tube fitting and a couple other things to make it fit.you would be best to get a 80 with fuel injection on it . I keep this only cause I bought it new for the wife in 79 hard to part with but all in all the others are not as good as the guy you took it to he knows good luck I am near Baltimore and you
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